After many years of hard work, I finally had the opportunity to return to Egypt! Of course, I immediately attached some additional travel to the work trip, and set out on a two-week exploration from north to south. In this blog post, I will start with some notes on Cairo.
Cairo is a city steeped in history, with its roots stretching back thousand of years. It has long been a centre of learning, trade, and culture. It still contains a fascinating mix of ancient and modern, where centuries-old mosques stand alongside new flats and hotels. An amazing example of this is the 9th-century Ibn Tulun Mosque … which ehm I did not actually get around to visiting this time around! In any case, whether you are exploring historic sites or wandering down narrow, winding streets … Cairo constantly offers this journey through time. It is a really fantastic city, and I highly recommend visiting.
Cairo tips
This paragraph is very much not comprehensive, I did not spend enough time in Cairo for that! Nevertheless, I just wanted to note a handful of random bits for you in case it is helpful.
To start with, transport: we could not figure out any good way to use apps like Uber. While I’ve recently found this very easy in countries like South Africa and Indonesia – Egypt not so much. Hailing a taxi and insisting on a meter – or negotiating a good price if you know where you’re going – seems like the only way to get around. At busy times in the evening we got stuck by the roadside a fair few times. From the airport, I negotiated a pick-up with our accommodation beforehand – because airport taxi drivers know you’re stuck there and are very hard to negotiate with.
For authentic Egyptian food, we were recommended Koshary Abou Tarek by a friend. We took a taxi straight there, late one evening, and were very much the only foreigners in the building! Even though it’s honestly pretty well-known. This is a brilliant option if you are vegetarian, like me. They serve one thing: a dish made up of rice, pasta, lentils, chickpeas, onions, and spicy tomato sauce. Really excellent, could eat this every day!
For a little alcoholic beverage, try the famous Café Riche. This even has its own Wikipedia page. This was (or is? can anyone tell me?) a hub for artists, reporters and political activists throughout the 20th century. It was part of many key historical events, including, reportedly, discussions that led to the 1919 revolution as well as secret meetings linked to the 1952 revolution.
Coptic neighbourhood
Now, for things to do and places to see! The Coptic neighbourhood of Cairo (or Coptic Cairo) holds a fascinating blend of history, culture, and faith, right in the middle of the city. It is really a must-visit for anyone interested in Egypt’s Christian heritage. You can explore some of the oldest churches in the country, including the famous ‘Hanging Church’ (Saint Virgin Mary’s Church), known for its stunning wooden ceiling and ancient icons. Nearby, there is the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus, said to be built over the cave where the Holy Family stayed during their flight to Egypt. On this trip, we also visited the Church of St George – the small one, just because it was still open in the evening.
Although the Coptic community has sadly been subject to various attacks in recent years, this neighbourhood is also strangely peaceful place to walk around. We got there quite late in the day, due to above-described taxi issues, and were not allowed to enter at first. At the main ‘entrance’ (if a neighbourhood can have an entrance?) we encountered fences and guards, who were not keen to let foreigners with a baby wander around after dark. However, after some discussion, they changed their minds, and (for a fee of course…) escorted us through the little alleyways.
Although it was very quiet and calm after dark, without crowds of tourists, I would probably recommend coming in the day. The guards will feel more comfortable, and the bookshops will be open.
National museum
The Cairo Egyptian Museum is obviously a treasure trove for anyone fascinated by ancient Egypt. It houses over a hundred thousand artifacts and it showcases some of the most important archaeological finds… not just in Egypt, but in history. Of course, there’s King Tutankhamun’s tomb, including his famous golden mask – but also carvings, jewellery, and everyday items that tell the story of life along the Nile over thousands of years.
Wandering through the somewhat chaotic halls, it feels like stepping back in time … not just in terms of the displays but also the building itself. Last time I was in Cairo, in 2010, I found the national museum a dusty and overwhelming experience. There were no information signs anywhere, all the artefacts crammed together, across endless, endless galleries. Ehm, at least it was quiet though, there was basically no one else who bothered going. Fast-forward a decade… it was supposed to have been updated and re-opened… but nope. It was actually much the same… but also so incredibly busy! As I understand it, they are now working on a massive hyper-modern new museum near the pyramids (the Grand Egyptian Museum), of which the opening date keeps getting moved.
Beware of the museum opening days and times by the way, we tried to go three times and only got lucky on the third try! The website is not super reliable, and most locals we asked were also somewhat at a loss… so plan carefully.
The Pyramids of Giza
Okay, the Pyramids of Giza are of course Egypt’s most iconic archaeological site. They stand as a testament to millennia of ancient engineering. Built as grand tombs for Pharaohs Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure, these pyramids were part of a vast complex that also includes the enigmatic Great Sphinx, a massive limestone statue with the body of a lion and the face of Khafre. Legend has it that its poor nose was damaged by Napoleon’s cannons, but actually this deformation probably took place centuries earlier. Anyway, it is important to understand all these monuments were connected to temples, inscriptions, even funerary boats. It was part of a much larger social process than what you see stuck on a postcard now.
While I would not tell anyone to skip this imposing wonder of the world, it is not actually Egypt’s most interesting ancient site. For one, people were never meant to enter the pyramids. While tourists can go in now, there’s not much inside… mostly just plain stone. If you want to see a really beautifully decorated tomb, travel down to the Valley of the Kings or the valley of the Queens (blog post coming up next!). That is, if you are okay with visiting someone’s tomb; the ethics of this can be questioned, of course.
Saqqara
Saqqara is like stepping into an open-air museum of Egypt’s ancient history; and stepping back in time from Giza a bit too. With the monument for Pharaoh Djoser, the so-called ‘step pyramids’ actually marked the beginning of the age of pyramids. Saqqara is not just the site of Djoser’s pyramid however – it is again vast necropolis filled with tombs and statues that was used for several thousand years straight. Visiting Saqqara gives you a chance to see the evolution of Egyptian burial practices, while, crucially, enjoying far fewer crowds than Giza.
In my opinion, the most impressive sights at Saqqara are the beautifully decorated interiors of the Pyramid of Teti and nearby non-royal tomb of Mereruka. The Pyramid of Teti is notable for being one of the earliest pyramids with Pyramid Texts. Carved into the walls of Teti’s burial chamber and passages, these writings contain spells and incantations meant to guide the pharaoh through the afterlife, ensuring his resurrection and eternal life. The inscriptions often invoke Osiris and Re, and reflect Teti’s hope for immortality. Next door on the other hand, the Tomb of Mereruka (a vizier and high-ranking official under Teti) has walls adorned with everyday depictions like hunting, fishing, and agriculture. They provide a vivid picture of ‘normal’ life during the Old Kingdom (while showing off Mereruka’s wealth and power as well, of course!).
Have I kept this short and read-able enough? Have you been to Cairo, and what was your favourite part? Next up will be a blog post about our time in Luxor!
P.s. Really important areas not described in this blogpost because I didn’t have time to visit this time around (and must therefore return, ASAP): Khan el-Khalili market, Al-Azhar Mosque, and Ibn Tulun Mosque.
