The last leg of our journey through Egypt: Aswan. We did not nearly spend enough time here of course, but this was my first ever visit so a start was made anyway!
Aswan once was (or is?) the gateway to Nubia and a key trading post between Egypt and the rest of Africa. The city was also famous for its quarries, which supplied much of the granite used for the construction of Egypt’s temples, statues, and obelisks. In the modern era, Aswan gained further significance with the construction of the Aswan High Dam (see below), which created Lake Nasser and transformed Egypt’s agricultural and energy sectors. It’s super far away from Egypt’s capital, Cairo, however – so Aswan only ever makes it onto longer/bigger travel itineraries and it is overlooked by tourists drawn to the Pyramids of Giza.
Aswan tips
I looked high and low for an AirBnB in Aswan, but found exactly zero that had a place to sleep for a baby/toddler. So, we eventually opted for a hotel right in the middle of the Nile. The boat trip there and back every day was incredibly scenic – but otherwise I very much do not recommend. Rather understandably, for a hotel in the middle of the Nile, its wifi was non-existent. That’s okay if you are there to disconnect, but both my mum and myself had a couple of work bits to do which was straight up impossible. We also could not check in for our flight back to Cairo, and so forth. To make matters worse, there was no hot water in our room for half the stay. Not appreciated by the dusty toddler who wasn’t used to that. They also absolutely refused to let us do our laundry, and no one was willing or able to suggest a laundrette in town – so we had to hand-wash in a bucket in the cold water. I wouldn’t complain – first world problems and everything – but since we had to pay a fair bit of money for this fancy hotel, ehm, I will haha.
Oh one last thing, while I am still going on about the hotel: their tourist office was very difficult to negotiate with, and while we eventually settled on an okay trip to Philae and then also Abu Simbel… we could not get anywhere near a normal price for an airport transfer. So, we asked around in town when we were out for dinner and someone’s friend of a cousin came and picked us up at a normal rate. Which leads me to my food tip, by the way: we really enjoyed Salah el-Din. The people there were super friendly: helped us carry the pram up and down the steps, played with my toddler, found us cold beers (whoops did not realise yet I was pregnant!), served a couple vegetarian options. Recommend. We also had a rather good (take-away) wrap from Makani one day. As both of these are right on the corniche they’re certainly popular with foreigners, but there were plenty of locals there too.
By the way, on this trip we did not make it to the Unfinished Obelisk, Monastery of St Simeon or, less well-known but high on my wish-list, the Temple of Kalabsha.
Aswan High Dam
Lets’ talk about Aswan High Dam for a moment. This is a very small and short stop on the travel itinerary, but a monumental project in terms of 20th century engineering and geography. Completed in 1970, it dramatically changed the landscape and economy of Egypt. The dam was built to control the annual flooding of the Nile, provide hydroelectric power, and store water for irrigation. Stretching nearly 4 kilometres across and standing 111 meters high, the dam created Lake Nasser i.e. one of the largest man-made lakes in the world. This massive reservoir extends into both Egypt and Sudan.
The dam’s construction led to the displacement of an estimated 50-100,000 Nubians – both in Egypt and Sudan – causing a significant cultural shift. Beyond the dam’s immediate impact on the people, it also affected numerous archaeological sites. Rather interestingly, in response to this, one of the largest archaeological rescue missions in history was launched supported by UNESCO. Dozens of major monuments and temples were relocated to higher ground, the most famous being the Temples of Philae and Abu Simbel. Nowadays, there are designated viewpoints along the dam where you can take in the enormity of the lake and the surrounding desert landscape.
Nubian Museum
A must-visit: the Nubian Museum, dedicated to preserving the heritage of the Nubian people. The museum showcases an impressive collection of artifacts that date back thousands of years, including pottery, jewellery, tools, and statues, providing insights into the daily life, beliefs, and artistry of the Nubians. The museum also features beautifully curated exhibits on the region’s history, from prehistoric times through to the Pharaonic, Roman, and Islamic periods. Including a section with life-size Nubian villagers ha. This museum is comparable to the Luxor museum, although a little bigger actually! Definitely have to have a look to understand cultural diversity in Egypt.
Backing up slightly: the Nubians are one of the oldest and arguably most culturally significant groups in Egypt. Ancient Nubia – located along the Nile in what is now southern Egypt and northern Sudan – was home to powerful kingdoms, including Kush. Nubia was particularly known for trading gold – and it had a somewhat complex relationship with the rest of (ancient) Egypt. While there was cooperation, there was certainly also conflict. During certain periods, Egypt conquered parts of Nubia, while at other times, Nubia ruled over Egypt. Notably, during the 25th Dynasty (around about the 7th century BCE), Nubian kings (aka Kushite Pharaohs) ruled over both Nubia and Egypt, uniting the two lands under their control. Perhaps most interesting is that Nubians always maintained a distinct cultural identity, with their own languages, customs, and religious practices.
Philae
Philae is an island temple complex dedicated to the goddess Isis. As described above, the original Philae Temple was threatened by flooding after the construction of the Aswan Low Dam in the early 20th century and later the Aswan High Dam. However, it was rescued and relocated to the nearby Agilkia Island!
Philae is accessible only by boat, making the journey to the island part of the experience. The boat ride is around 10-15 minutes, and has great views of the Nile, the surrounding islands, and the temple as you approach it. Boats are available on-site, and the cost of the ride is negotiable… but it’s helpful to agree on a price before setting off. We had to negotiate hard here. We encountered some other travellers without a group and teamed up, and honestly had to talk the cost down not half but to a quarter of what was originally proposed to us. They were trying to insanely overcharge. We then agreed with the boat… driver? that he would pick us up again two hours later. Imagine not having a deal to go back – then you will really have to pay! Or set up camp on the island, I suppose.
As you step off the boat, you wander into the impressive First Pylon of the Temple of Isis. The entrance leads you into the Forecourt, which has really stunning columns casting beautiful shadows. The walls here are covered in reliefs of ancient deities and royals. From the forecourt, you enter the Hypostyle Hall, with columns adorned with floral capitals and hieroglyphic inscriptions. The Inner Sanctuary once held the sacred barque of Isis, and the reliefs inside depict scenes of her divine power. It was pretty busy with tourists around here – but duck outside and there are plenty of quiet corners to explore as well.
Beyond the main temple of Isis, there are a couple of other fascinating structures on the island. In particular, don’t forget to have a look at the nilometer: a structure for measuring the Nile River’s clarity and water level during the annual flood season. To the right of the temple lies the Temple of Hathor. This is a smaller but also beautifully adorned building, featuring charming reliefs of musicians and dancers. Nearby, you’ll also find the Kiosk of Trajan, a pavilion with tall columns that overlooks the Nile. This structure, built during the Roman period, has a wall with a ship etched in to it! There’s also smaller chapels and shrines scattered throughout the complex; and you can spot inscriptions from early Christian visitors, as Philae was used as a Coptic church and monastery too.
Abu Simbel
Abu Simbel is located about 280 kilometres south of Aswan and can be reached by various methods. There are several daily flights that take around 30 minutes. Ehm that is obviously not the most eco-friendly way to travel though! Another option is to drive, either by hiring a car or joining a guided tour. Or, as we did, booking onto a mini-bus. The road trip takes about 3.5 to 4 hours through the big, empty desert. If you have time and like boats (I didn’t and I don’t), you can also opt for a Lake Nasser cruise. We tried to find the cheapest mini-bus deal possible, and had to leave at something crazy like 4am. It turns out not everyone on our bus had negotiated as well as we had, and we had paid less than the others! Not very fair… Anyway, all the mini-busses from Aswan line up at the start of the road down to Abu Simbel for it to open at sunrise, and then sort of raced each other down there. (The road has opening and closing times due to its proximity to the border, and it is well-guarded.) Much to my annoyance several massive tour busses had already arrived before us (how?!) so it was still pretty busy!
The approach to the Great Temple is pretty dramatic; you have to walk around the (artificial) hill first, down a fairly long road. Don’t worry, it has been made totally wheelchair and pram accessible! Although we had opted to leave the toddler with my mum is the hotel and not disturb them in the middle of the night to spend most the day on a mini-bus. Anyway, you will then encounter the four colossal statues of Ramses II, each standing over 20 meters tall, dominating the temple’s façade. These towering figures were carved directly into the mountain and serve as a bold statement of the pharaoh’s divine power and eternal reign. (Yes, UNESCO essentially moved an actual mountain!) Believe me, it took a lot of effort to take photos here that do not feature a mass of Spanish tourists.
Inside the temple is the Grand Hall of Pillars, a large chamber supported by statues of Ramses in the form of Osiris. The walls are covered with intricate reliefs depicting Ramses’ military victories, including the Battle of Kadesh (where he famously fought the Hittites). It’s super dark (and hot) in there though, so this is all very hard to see! As you walk deeper into the temple, you’ll reach the Sanctuary of course, the holiest part of the structure. Four statues sit at the back, representing Ramses II, Ra-Horakhty, Amun, and Ptah. Twice a year, the rising sun aligns perfectly with the entrance of the temple, illuminating three of the four statues, while Ptah, the god of the underworld, remains in shadow. Note that this means that even after being moved from what’s now Lake Nasser, the temples retain their original orientation!
Next to the Great Temple is the Smaller Temple, dedicated to Queen Nefertari and the goddess Hathor. The façade is equally impressive, with six colossal statues: four of Ramses II and two of Nefertari. What makes this temple unique is that Nefertari is depicted on the same scale as Ramses; not especially common for women in those days. Inside, the walls are adorned with beautiful reliefs showing Nefertari making offerings to Hathor and participating in religious ceremonies with Ramses. Again, very dark in there though, not good for photos!
Abu Simbel is honestly awe-inspiring, and it is worth the long journey at least once. The combination of its remote location, colossal statues, and rich history easily makes it one of Egypt’s most memorable sites.
