(This post was originally written in 2018, but it seems I forgot to hit publish! I checked though, and I’m pretty sure all information still applies.)
When I applied for this job last November, some exciting countries were mentioned: South Africa, India. I am not sure I even dreamed those projects would actually happen. In fact, India almost didn’t, so when we managed to set something up in June to take place in August imagine how happy I was. And it got better: the dates that suited the company were attached to the August bank holiday. It should come as no surprise that I decided to fly in a few days early and explore Delhi.
A colleague and myself easily booked a cheap AirBnB, whose lovely hosts specialised in cooking a huge vegetarian breakfast. Staying, eating in, and getting around Delhi is not difficult and not expensive, and there are so many options. We took an airport taxi (fighting off the people who tried to take our luggage for tips), an Uber to the market, a tuktuk back. We quickly learned that any tuktuk price quoted ought to be halved or even quartered – if possible, in awkwardly attempted Hindi to come across less blonde and foreign. I am lucky enough to have an Indian housemate, so I had a long list of very good recommendations, both for places to see and (perhaps even more importantly in India) places to eat.
First off, we went to see the beautiful Qutb Minar complex. It is the site of an ancient mosque, said to have (had) the second tallest minaret in the world. The complex can be dated back to the late 12th century CE, which makes it one of the oldest sites in Delhi. It’s made of stunning red sandstone and, somewhat sadly, parts of destroyed Hindu temples. The mosque (roughly) marks the beginning of Muslim rule in India. It is designed in a very interesting and distinct Indo-Islamic style, with intricate stone carvings of floral and geometric motives. Of course, it was damaged over the years – particularly by some severe earthquakes – but it was also always re-constructed. There is an interesting, and much older, ‘iron pillar’ inside the complex as well, with a Brahmic inscription in the eastern variety of the Gupta script. It is the eulogy of a king named Chandra. It also has a later inscription, supposedly making the first historical mention of the name Delhi (Dilli) – but this has been much disputed. P.S. As it turns out, foreigners pay way more to visit sites like these than locals. It’s still affordable, and the queues are better, but be prepared. Also, mind ‘guides’ who are out for tips, and pickpockets.
We also made our way down to the Red Fort. All the museums inside were closed; I am not sure if that is regular, or whether they are renovating – someone let me know! In addition, it was not possible to go inside any of the buildings, only to admire them from the outside? It would be fantastic to see the detailed lattice work up close. The buildings certainly are admirable either way however. The conception of the Red Fort dates to the 17th century Mughal Dynasty, and takes it name from the warm red sandstone used to build it. Apparently a large part of it was also made of marble, once upon a time; but most of this has since been destroyed or looted. You walk up to the Emperor’s residence through a small ‘bazaar’ with lots of touristy items (albeit at rather reasonable prices!). The first building after this is the ‘Audience Hall’, where you could take amazing photographs of the decorated column if it were not for the hundreds of (regional) tourists. Whom, by the way, all wanted photos with me. (My rule is: if you want a photo with me, I want a photo with you; so I now have a dozen pictures of random Indian people). Next are the ‘Palace of Colour’, where the harem would have stayed, and the Emperor’s private rooms, inside which it is just about possible to make out beautiful floral murals. These are followed by the hammam and the mosque, which were virtually impossible to peek inside. Is it possible to convince some authority to get a private tour one day, maybe? The buildings are connected by the so-called ‘stream of paradise’, which I imagine was beautiful when water streamed through it (do they ever still do that?). The Red Fort was a very interesting experience, especially from an architectural point of view. However, I would say, if you ever only have one day in Delhi for some reason: visit Humayun’s Tomb instead.
Humayun’s Tomb is probably the best alternative to the Taj Mahal. In fact, I have never been to the Taj Mahal, but I might wager to say that Humayun’s Tomb is a better site to visit. (Update 2024: I have now visited the Taj Mahal, and Humayun’s tomb is indeed more impressive and much more quiet – in my opinion.) We went at 9am on a Tuesday and there was practically no one else there. For the first hour anyway. This is likewise a Mughal build, commissioned by Emperor Humayun’s first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega (‘Haji’) Begum and designed by Persian architects. It was in fact one of the first massive monumental mausoleums constructed in Islamic India, and very much an influence on the design of the later Taj Mahal. Bega Begum was an interesting lady: she (tried to be) involved in matters of state, and she sounds like she was quite tough, intelligent, and determined. The burial complex also includes a couple of mosques as well as a beautiful madrasa, and a huge quartered garden to explore (also one of the first examples of its kind). I really recommend visiting this if you were not planning to already.
Otherwise, we also had a look at the Old Fort (Purana Qila). This is a significantly more ruined site than the others described so far, but of interest almost because of it. There is a small archaeological museum (which was actually open while we were there) with pottery dating back to the first millennium BCE. There is a beautiful pre-Mughal (just about) mosque; it has a single dome and single aisle, and five entrance arches decorated with very fine Islamic calligraphy. It is quite odd visiting a mosque without its doors, and without its rugs ready for prayer; but on the other hand, it is a very nice opportunity to walk around and admire details up close without bothering anyone. Inside the Old Fort there is also a little octagonal tower, which was apparently the library and observatory of Humayun, and where he died. One day, when he heard the call for prayer, he rushed down the stairs too quick and fell. (So goes the legend, anyway.)
Last but not least, we made our way down to Stepwell (Agrasen ki Baoli). I have to say, I did not realise that name literally meant it would be steps going down into a well. These were nice, cool retreats during summer; but also obviously a source of water. It is not exactly known when this extremely impressive 60 metre long well was rebuilt, but probably at least somewhere between the 12th to 14th century or earlier. It has 108 steps, divided over three levels, and definitely triggered my vertigo. Stepwells were apparently common throughout what is now India and Pakistan, and when the designer took things seriously, they could end up magnificent, detailed monuments; even temples. I would love to visit a couple more, they sound like fascinating structures in general.
Besides numerous brilliant historical sites, we also visited the market in Old Delhi. I think going to the market/suq/bazaar is my favourite activity in any country. I would love to repeat this with a local friend some time though, because it is really difficult to work out where to (safely) go and not be scammed. I think I have a pretty good feeling for these things at this point, but it is never fun to question the situation anyway. I returned with bags packed with tea, spices, scarves, I don’t even know, so many amazing things! We went to Dilli Haat market as well, at the recommendation of my housemate, where I obtained some cool art and, yes, another rug. Again, we went there quite early in the morning, so it was very quiet. Too quiet, actually; I like a good busy market. You have to pay to enter Dilli Haat, so there were not necessarily so many locals, and the salespeople were definitely geared towards tourists… However, the stalls were still very nice so I do really recommend it.
Oh, and one more thing I have to talk about when it comes to Delhi: food. My housemate recommended some amazing places, top of which was possibly the little café at the Handicrafts museum, Café Lota. I would certainly classify it as somewhat hipster, and not as cheap as the average local place (but still very affordable for us) – but wow, they had an amazing selection of food and drinks. We actually went there twice! And then there were so many other brilliant things all around the city. Of course, we were a little bit careful with street food. We bought water from brands we knew and checked the seal; and as a vegetarian I avoid meat anyways (which, fortunately, is super easy in India!). I am proud to report I ate everything, but got no food poisoning. We had roti and biryani and so many delicious paneer dishes. Oh, and a huge variety of naan. I still do love an English curry, but I feel like this experience has ruined it for me slightly. So many fantastic things. My colleagues were tired of it after three days and craved some Italian, but I easily ate Indian cuisine three meals a day for a week straight, and could have happily kept going.
India, I will be back. Mum needs to go to that old town market, and we have a lot more eating to do.
