Because I was not sure whether to tag this onto Luxor or Aswan, I thought I would write a separate min-post about our drive between the two cities. We specifically choose this mode of transport, because there were some sights we wanted to see along the way. In fact, there’s loads more to see than the two stops we made – but with a toddler you have to be a little more time-conscious than most.

Road-trip tips

First, consider finding a comfortable, air-conditioned car that has enough space for everyone – in my opinion, ideally with a driver! Although the roads between Luxor and Aswan are generally in good condition, it makes sense to be cautious. There may be a few rough patches, traffic can still be a bit nuts if you’re used to e.g. the UK or The Netherlands, and driving after dark is not brilliant due to limited lighting. We negotiated transport through the drivers we’d met at our AirBnB the previous two days. Since we did this completely offline and off the record I can’t remember the cost, but it was anywhere between 80 and 120 USD. Do note that a trip like this is likely to cost a little more than a local journey, as the driver won’t be home for dinner!

Before setting off, make sure you’re well-stocked with essentials. Pack plenty of snacks and water, as roadside food options may be limited – and keeping any small children well-fed and hydrated is key. Bring along toys and books for entertainment during long stretches of driving. We introduced the Duolingo ABC app rather successfully to my 22 month old. Love an educational distraction. To make the trip more comfortable, it’s best to start your journey early in the morning to avoid the midday heat. If you’re obsessed with well-timed naps (like any sleep-deprived parent), planning the longer driving stretches around nap time can really help! Also, ensure you have downloaded maps for offline use, in case you encounter areas with poor signal. Although we visited two very well-known sites, not all drivers are going to know the way to more obscure ones.

The drive between Luxor and Aswan is typically about three to four hours without stops, but our aim was to turn this into a leisurely day trip with breaks to explore some of Egypt’s historic sites. We selected the Temple of Edfu, which is about halfway along the route, and the Temple of Kom Ombo, located closer to Aswan. Given the hot climate in Upper Egypt, even in the autumn and winter months, it is crucial to dress in light, breathable fabrics and keep (makeshift) sunshades for the car windows. Restroom breaks are another thing to keep in mind, as facilities might be limited. Remember also that at e.g. Edfu the cleaners will expect a tip! Oh one last thing: while driving, you may encounter police checkpoints between cities. These are routine and generally involve a quick check of identification and car documents, so keep them easily accessible. The local authorities are usually very friendly and accommodating toward tourists.

Edfu

The Temple of Edfu, dedicated to the falcon god Horus, is one of the best-preserved temples in all of Egypt thanks to being buried under desert sand for centuries. The structure you can visit today was built during the Ptolemaic period (3rd-1st century BCE), so it is way more recent than e.g. the Pyramids of Giza!  As you approach the temple, you will first be greeted by its grand pylon, decorated with striking reliefs of Ptolemaic pharaohs offering sacrifices and participating in battle. You then step into the first courtyard, an open area surrounded by colonnades. This is where people once gathered for festivals and rituals, and you can still see inscriptions and carvings dedicated to Horus.

Moving forward, you enter the Hypostyle Hall. The columns here are notably decorated with intricate floral capitals. The ceiling is also still remarkably intact in places, and some of the original paint is visible. Next, you pass through the Second Hypostyle Hall or Hall of Offerings. The walls here are covered with scenes depicting religious ceremonies. Finally, you reach the inner sanctuary, the most sacred part of the temple, where the statue of Horus would have been kept. This small, dark chamber once housed a sacred barque of Horus – aka the ‘holy boat’. This is a really neat miniature boat-like shrine, which was treated as temporary resting places for the gods. The barque would be taken from one temple to another (with the gods believed to be in them) to bring blessings to the people. The room still holds the granite pedestal where the statue of the god would have been placed. Surrounding rooms and passages feature beautifully preserved carvings related to the daily rituals performed by the priests.

We did not stop in the town of Edfu itself, but its got a nice market and it is used to catering for tourists. We just had a ridiculously overpriced juice to cool down, and then went on our way to the next site.

Kom Ombo

First things first, we had a little snack and drink at the café/restaurant next to the site. As in Luxor, local kids selling souvenirs were charmed by my blonde toddler and absolutely insisted on leaving us with some gifts.

The Temple of Kom Ombo – or, actually, it is two temples: one dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god of fertility and Nile waters, and one dedicated to Horus, the falcon-headed god of the sky – was also built during the Ptolemaic period. As with nearly everything in Egypt, the history goes further back – but that is what’s still standing today. Its unusual dual design means everything is symmetrical. There are two entrances, two halls, and two sanctuaries. Also very impressive is that it is set right on the Nile, offering very nice views – especially at the end of the day when the golden light hits the sandstone walls. It was really quiet when we were there and I got brilliant photographs stretching from top to bottom of the empty temple(s).

The reliefs that line the temple walls show scenes of both Sobek and Horus receiving offerings from the Ptolemaic pharaohs. The pictures are deeply carved and incredibly well-preserved. They include fascinating medical scenes too, e.g. in one of the side chambers ancient surgical instruments are depicted. Perhaps most exciting though, is an ancient calendar. It records important festival dates and shows the date of the Nile’s flooding season!

The temple has its own Crocodile Museum, where you can see mummified crocodiles that were once revered as manifestations of Sobek. We did not visit the museum though, as we were out of energy and wanted to try and get to Aswan before dark.